Spring is here and with all the yarn dyed shirting fabrics we have, I had the urge to make an oversize shirt. But not just any oversized shirt. Something with a design detail that would elevate it from ordinary to WOW!
What I found was the Oversize Woman’s Shirt by Dressy Talk Patterns. I fell in love with that dramatic pleat in the back.
PLEASE NOTE THAT SEWING INSTRUCTIONS ARE NOT INCLUDED WITH THIS PATTERN.
Ooo … Challenge!
The oversize shirt by Dressy Talk patterns.
I used this European yarn dyed linen – Thistle.
Light Weight Yarn Dyed Linen – Thistle
Here is the written description of the pattern.
PDF sewing pattern of the women’s oversized shirt with cuffed long sleeves, classic shirt collar, back yoke, curved hem line, chest pockets, and diagonal pleats on the back.
It also has a hidden front button placket which was a new technique for me.
The pattern does not have a large range of sizes – just from US size 0 (bust of 80cm or 31 1/2″) to US size 12 (bust of 104cm or 41″). It does give height options anywhere from 164cm or 5 ft 5″ to 176cm or 5 ft 9″. My 100cm bust meant I would make a size 10. Seam allowances of 1cm or 3/8″ are included.
Yardage requirements is exact. I did not really have any extra fabric left over especially since I had to cut everything out with a nap.
I had to refresh my memory of some sewing techniques that I pulled from other patterns (order of collar construction, sleeve vent and hidden button placket) but otherwise everything went smoothly.
Until the very end. With the buttonholes on the cuffs. In my rush to get the garment completed, I sewed and cut the cuff button holes the WRONG WAY! I almost cried!
In rushing to finish the shirt, I made a mistake on the cuffs.
One suggestion from a friend was to sew the buttonholes together then sew the button on top. The button would hide the buttonhole mistake. Doable but not ideal.
Another suggestion was to separate the cuffs from the sleeves and swap them over. I hate unpicking!!
Then there was the brilliant suggestion of making french cuffs and sewing 2 buttons together to make cuff links. YES!
Check out the finished result.
The majority of the construction was just like any other shirt pattern. The puzzle piece for me was the back pleat. Here is a picture of the lower back pattern piece (cut on the CB fold).
Lower back pattern piece for the oversized shirt by Dressy Talk patterns.
How I found it worked for me was to baste together the smaller dart. The folded edge of the dart is the folded edge of the pleat. Working on the right side of the lower back, fold that basted dart over the center back so the leg of the small dart matches to the center back. Coincidentally, the fold line of the small dart meets up with the leg of the large dart on the other side of the CB. Repeat on the other side. Carry on. The rest of the shirt construction is pretty standard.
The pin stuck in my pressing board marks the center back. Note the leg of the smaller dart meets at the center back. Coincidentally, the fold meets the leg of the larger dart on the opposite side.
Now I’m off to flash my french cuffs to everyone. Oh la la!
Click on the link below to see my construction notes on making this garment. Hopefully they can help you with making this shirt.
the Oversized Shirt from Dressy Talk Patterns personal construction notes
Resources I found handy.
How to Sew A Hidden Button Placket – Kalle Sewalong by Closet Core
How to Make A Hidden Button Placket – Threads Magazine
How To Make Double Button Cuff Links
Feedback from customers, lead me to discover this Dressy Talk youtube video on how to make the hidden button placket.
I saw this shirt in your lovely shop last week, and had to download the pattern. It’s a beautiful make, and you did a wonderful job. Your choice to do the French cuffs is so pretty, and a very clever way to turn a little mistake into a big win. The sleeve pieces in the pattern seem too short – but I take it this is a drop-shoulder shirt, and that the drop shoulders make up for the short sleeve pattern pieces? I’ll make up a muslin just to be sure. Dressy Talk has a really good tutorial on hidden placket shirt fronts on YouTube.
Yes, I think the dropped shoulder makes up for the short sleeves. Although, with my short arms, I’m considering shortening the sleeves about 3/4″ the next time I make it. I didn’t know about their YouTube channel. I’ll have to take a look. Thanks for the suggestion!
When I was perusing your lovely shop last week, it was the design of this shirt that initially caught my eye. You did a fantastic job, and the result is beautiful. Making French cuffs out of the sleeves was a great move and a clever way to turn a little setback into a major success. Since it looks to be a drop-shoulder shirt, I’m hoping the larger shoulders will make up for the shorter sleeve pattern pieces, but I’m not sure. For the sake of caution, I’m going to make a muslin. Dressy Talk has a very informative video tutorial on how to sew hidden placket shirt fronts that can be found on YouTube.
Yes, the dropped shoulder does compensate for the shorter sleeve pattern. However, I actually found the sleeves a little too long for me. Maybe about 1″ too long. Definitely make up a muslin first. That way you will know what issues you need to address for your personal fitting. Thanks for the information about the Youtube tutorial. I’ll look into that.