Sunny Days, My Friend

July 11, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

It is finally here. Summer! With sunshine and heat. Woohoo!

For a while there, although the calendar said summer, it seemed that the weather gods hadn’t gotten the message. But being forever hopeful, I got some summer sewing done so I would have something to wear on those balmy summer days on the beach.

One pattern that caught my eye was McCall’s 7562.

It is a loose fitting, pullover shift dress with the option of exposed shoulder ‘sleeves’ which is very on-trend this season. This pattern also offers different hem variations. I decided to try option C because of the open shoulder ‘sleeve’ feature. Suggested fabrics were something with a bit of body (chambray, denim, cotton blends) but I wanted something with a little more drape so I chose one of the new rayon prints we got in.

Then came the age old dilemma – what size to pick? My measurements (B=38″, H=41″) suggested I should make the L. But in checking out the finished measurements of the garment, I decided that M would be big enough without being too roomy.

This picture shows the bust finished measurement depending on size.

Here it shows the hip finished measurement based on size.

The actual construction of this garment is easy. The only part that may take some time is the front notched neckline. It’s not difficult, it just needs concentration 🙂

One thing I added when constructing the front notched neckline was some light weight fusible interfacing. Anytime a pattern asks to reinforce an area because you will be clipping it, I like to add some light weight fusible interfacing. I just find it helps with supporting that area. My interfacing of choice is the sewer’s dream since it is a non-woven and will not fray around the cut edges. I usually cut a piece a little bit bigger than the area being reinforced.

I also used the sewer’s dream interfacing for the curved hem facing. Since the rayon is a soft drapey fabric, I didn’t want to add any stiffness. It was just used to stabilize the shaping.

I didn’t adjust the length so I must be shorter than the McCall’s model since the length of her dress hits mid thigh.

This would be a great addition to your summer holiday wardrobe. Wear it while shopping in the outdoor markets of Mexico. Or when lounging on the beaches of Hawaii. It would also be great as a beach cover up.

Now excuse me while I go and catch some rays!

Going Plastic Free

June 28, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

In case you haven’t heard, the City of Victoria is banning single use plastic bags starting July 1, 2018. (As a side note, since the store will be closed Sunday, July 1 for Canada Day, our sewing forum will be postponed to the next Sunday, July 8)

This means, if you go shopping at your favourite retailer in Victoria, be prepared to buy a paper bag or reusable bag or you will need to remember to bring your own shopping bag. We have made arrangements to be able to provide handled paper bags for purchase. Or we do have staff made fabric bags available by donation (suggested donation of $10) where 100% of the monies will go to a local animal rescue.

But, if you are like me, you have a stash of fabric which you could plumb for bag making candidates. Depending on how complicated and detailed a bag you like, you could make a bag in anywhere from 15 minutes to a couple hours.

Here is a previous blog post for a quickie bag option.

Grocery Bag, Book Bag or All Round Tote Bag

Here are some links to some free bag patterns of varied complexity.

Mixed-Up-Market-Bag

Renegade Tote Bag

Quick Fix Grocery Bag

A Handibag from a Pillowcase

(this also has a small pocket that the bag can fold up into!)

Cargo Duffle Bag

Shirt and Tie Tote

Do you have a favourite tote bag pattern? Share please!

Row By Row 2018 – The Creative Process

June 16, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

If you are a quilter, you may know of the international shop hop called Row By Row. Many quilt and fabric stores across North America (and even Europe and Australia!) have registered to participate by designing a quilt block based on a theme. This year’s theme is “Sew Musical”. Any sewer can participate as one of the really fun parts of this activity is travelling to all the stores to pick up their free block pattern or purchasing their fabric kit for the block. You only have to pick up eight different blocks, put them together in to a quilt, show the quilt to your nearest participating store to enter to win a prize! What a fun way to be a tourist in your home town or as you travel across the country!

This is our second year participating since we got to visit with many tourists from across Canada as well as the US and Europe. When the theme announcement was made, all the store staff brainstormed ideas as to what our block could be. And, of course we involved our very talented local textile artist and quilt designer, Susan Teece. How could we combine Victoria and music pictorially in a fabric block? We thought of the different music festivals happening in Victoria such as the Jazz fest, Ska fest or Rifflandia but how would we differentiate them from music festivals going on in other cities? Then we thought to try depicting the music used in native ceremonies such as the drums and rattles but all the native artists we asked were not comfortable designing something for quilting as their background was in fashion.

Then there was a news article about a local orca pod having a new baby resident. This was big news in the city as the Southern Resident Orca pod is considered endangered with only 76 whales. With all the news coverage of these animals, we decided to use their sounds as our music theme.

We based our block design on the upper image of this sound frequency picture from the Sea World Parks and Entertainment site.

Here are the various manifestations that Susan tried with the idea of appliqueing orca images over top.

Drum roll for the big reveal …. Presenting our final block design for the 2018 Row by Row challenge. Voila!

What do you think?

The Danger of Complacency

June 8, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

I’ve been sewing more years than I can count so I figure I’ve got it all figured out. I’m terrible at reading the instructions. I just merrily go on my way. So far, all the garments I have sewn have worked out in regards to construction. Granted some of the outfits were not my size or not suitable for my body type, but the garment construction was successful.

Well, it seemed McCall 7714 was my Waterloo. It’s a simple pattern – princess seamed bodice, small attached waistband, pleated skirt and invisible zipper in the back. What’s complicated about that? I should have been able to put that together with my eyes closed (well, not literally!) HA!

The reason why I latched onto this pattern is that the shop had received some border printed fabric but many customers are puzzled on how to use them.

First of all, you have to break high school sewing rule number 101 and use the crossgrain (fabric’s weft). That means that instead of laying the grainline of your pattern pieces parallel to the selvage, you are actually rotating them 90* so your grainline goes across the fabric. (Think of the neckline of your garment positioned along one fabric selvage and your skirt or pant hemline positioned at the opposite selvage.)

Another thing to think about is given the selvage is a straight line, your garment design has to take this into consideration. No circle skirts here folks! Fuller skirted garments are possible but you need different planning. It doesn’t pose an issue if the sample garment shows the use of a border printed fabric. (For some reason, Butterick currently has a lot of border printed sample garments.)

But how do you know if other sewing patterns can be used? You just have to do a little investigative work first. You have to look into the guts of the pattern for designs that have a straight edged hem line. This applies to dresses, skirts, jackets and pants. Note the skirt pattern pieces #9 and #10 of McCall’s 7714, have a straight hemline.

In McCalls’s pant pattern M7415, you can see the pant hems are straight.

So how was M7714 my Waterloo? For some reason, my waistband pieces were too short. I was missing a side seam allowance on all the pieces. I checked the pattern pieces thinking the pattern company had made an error. But no. Everything matched. Of course, I didn’t have enough fabric to recut those pieces since I had lengthened the skirt. So I added little rectangular blocks. Thankfully, with this print, you can’t really tell. Then my waistband pieces don’t match across the zipper. Agh!

Don’t look too closely but my pleats didn’t match my notches so the skirt pleats don’t match the seams in the bodice. And then to add insult to everything, the pleats were actually supposed to be sewn down. I had just basted which of course I removed upon completion. Thankfully, the dress still looks ok.

Lesson learned. Don’t get too cocky no matter how long you have been doing this!

The Eva Dress by Tessuti

May 31, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

In preparation for a long hot summer (fingers crossed!) I have started my summer wardrobe. The same friend who recommended the Pia dress also suggested the Eva dress, both from the online store, Tessuti in Australia.

Here is the description for the Eva dress.

“This loose dress features a bodice that sits at high waist and a panelled, lantern-shaped skirt with side pockets. It can be made up in either a short-sleeved (A) or sleeveless (B) version. The Eva Dress is designed to be simple and stylish garment and makes for a comfortable and cool addition to your summer wardrobe. It’s best made up in medium weight crinkle and plain linens, textured cottons and cotton blends. For layering in the cooler months, Eva can also be made up in a wool crepe. ”

Talk about great timing! The shop also received some new colours in the crinkle linen. But what size should I make? Given that the XL size for the Pia dress JUST fit (measured for 101cm bust), I picked the size L since that was the suggested size for 101cm bust. So the required yardage of Vintage was cut and taken home to be cold water machine washed and dried. I chose a damp dry setting so the fabric would be easier to press should it be required.

Given the crinkle texture of the fabric, do you press and how much? The answer is probably best as “depends on what you want from the fabric in the end”. If you wish to have less texture in your garment, then press the fabric as much as you want realizing that the garment will require that much pressing after each wash. If you are in the “more texture is better” camp, then press as little as possible before cutting out your pattern pieces. The light pressing I did was because the fabric seemed to crinkle tighter near the selvedges so I tried to even the texture out.

The cutting and sewing instructions were clear with lots of pictures to help you along. (Make sure you mark your skirt pieces as they can be easily mixed up.) The only small hiccup was with sewing the pockets. Maybe it was just me, but I had a little head scratching with what to do with the side seam allowances when joining the front and back pocket pieces together. But all worked out in the end. There is a lot of pressing of seams which will flatten out the texture but remember the texture will reappear once washed again.

Here is my garment after having just finished all the sewing. With all the pressing I did, I found the dress to have even grown a size! Note how flat the seams are where pressed and top stitched.

Here is the garment again after being washed and damp dried. Note how the fabric crinkled up, shrinking in size? Personally I will try this pattern again, but in a size smaller (M) as I find it too loose fit for my taste. And I will consider shortening it a bit too.

Now, if only Victoria could get some hot summer weather. I’m waiting (as I look up to the sky)!!

Victoria, The Stork Has Landed!

May 9, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

Spring has sprung and it seems to be the time for babies! I’m not sure if it is the time of year or just my circle of friends, but there seems to be a large number of babies being born this year.

My go-to gift for new moms is the simple receiving blanket. I usually use cotton flannelette as it is soft and cozy for the baby. And there are lots of cute prints to choose from although many of the new moms coming into the store are picking up non-baby prints. It can be used to swaddle the baby, as a blanket, as a breast feeding cover, as a spit up wipe, as ground cover when needing to change the diaper …

All you need is 1m of 115cm wide fabric, a pair of scissors, a serger or sewing machine stitch that will finish a fabric edge, some thread and a large eye needle.

With your 1m of fabric, just finish the edges using your preferred method. I like the serger because if you curve the corners, you can do it all in one fell swoop instead of sewing off one edge only to start the next edge. Use the large eye needle to thread the tail end of serger thread into the stitches. I think this takes me total of 5 minutes to make from start to finish! So I “labour” long and hard by gifting 6 blankets at a time.

Another gift I like to make is a baby bib. This is for a slightly older child (6 months) but it’s amazing on how quickly 6 months pass. The pattern I like the best is the Bapron. It is more labour intensive but does not twist around the baby’s neck when worn. It also provides great practice in making and sewing bias binding.

If you make your own bias binding, did you know about the bias tape makers? These little gadgets opened up a whole new world for me. No more burnt fingers or fussy measuring. You also have a choice in tape sizes – anywhere from 1/4″ to 2″ widths. (6mm to 50mm)

For the uninitiated, bias tape is made by using strips of fabric cut on the bias or 45* angle of the fabric weave.

This gives the tape some curving ease for projects such as the Bapron. These strips then have both long edges folded into the middle, making single fold bias tape. The sizes listed in the bias tape makers refers to the width of the finished single fold bias tape. Depending on what size tape maker you use, you will need double the width in fabric.

I use the single fold bias tape in garment sewing for finishing neck lines or sleeveless armholes. With the ability to make my own tape, I can guarantee a match to my fashion fabric. For demonstration purposes, I used 2 obviously different fabrics so you can easily see what I’m doing. Here I am using single fold bias tape to finish a neckline. You will probably have to trim down the seam allowance of the garment neckline so the tape fold line will match the stitching line. Once secured, you press the tape over on the stitching line so that none of the tape shows on the garment front. Top stitch down.

Double fold bias tape is single fold tape folded again. When folding over, have one side a smidge shorter (maybe 3mm or 1/8″) than the other. This way, when you top stitch on the shorter layer, you are guaranteed to catch the bottom layer.

My most frequently used bias tape makers are the 1/2″ for single fold tape and 3/4″ for double fold tape. For the bib gifts, I like to use the 3/4″ maker.

Here is a handy tutorial for making bias trim.

And if you need to make yards and yards of trim, here is how to make continuous bias tape.

If you make baby gifts, what are your go-to projects?

May Events!

April 29, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

May’s forum will be on Sunday, May 6, 2018.
11:30am at the store.
Come meet other sewing enthusiasts to discuss all things sewing!
Project successes, project failures, fabric finds from far away places ….

Free event!

If you can’t make this month’s meeting, remember it is the first Sunday of the month (except in December and January)

Join us at the Victoria Quilters’ Guild show on May 4 – 6, 2018 at Pearkes Arena at Tillicum Mall.
These dedicated ladies have worked for 14 months organizing and promoting this show to display the guild’s sewing and quilting talent.
Check out the beautiful quilts, the merchant mall and the free sewing demonstrations. There will also be 2 free sewing classes on Saturday for youth interested in learning to quilt.
Show entry fee of $8 is good for all 3 days!

Colette Pattern Sale

April 16, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

We have just received notice that Colette Patterns is moving to digital patterns only. They are not disappearing but restructuring their company. Seamwork, their online pattern magazine, has grown quickly in the 3 years since its inception. They have an amazing community around Seamwork and have big plans for expanding it with more interactive features, video, and more. With the work involved with all these new online features, they do not have the time or (wo)man power to run the printed pattern business as well. Hence their decision to transition Colette Patterns to digital-only.
You get to benefit! All our printed Colette patterns are on for $10. Save yourself the inconvenience of printing off the file and taping all those 8″x11″ sheets of paper. Have everything at your disposal without all that hassle.

Sale prices are available for your online shopping. Stock up now to make sure you get all the patterns you want!

Colette Pattern Sale

April 16, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

We have just received notice that Colette Patterns is moving to digital patterns only. They are not disappearing but restructuring their company. Seamwork, their online pattern magazine, has grown quickly in the 3 years since its inception. They have an amazing community around Seamwork and have big plans for expanding it with more interactive features, video, and more. With the work involved with all these new online features, they do not have the time or (wo)man power to run the printed pattern business as well. Hence their decision to transition Colette Patterns to digital only.
You get to benefit! All our printed Colette patterns are on for $10. Save yourself the inconvenience of printing off the file and taping all those 8″x11″ sheets of paper. Have everything at your disposal without all that hassle.

Sale prices are both in store and for online shopping. Stock up now to make sure you get all the patterns you want!

This Girl’s Got Curves! Who Knew?

April 5, 2018 By Gala Fabrics Leave a Comment

Ok. I will be the first to admit, I’m not what you would call a curvy girl. I have a more rectangular silhouette with my broad, square shoulders (from hefting bolts of fabric all day), and almost non-existent waist. In fact, there is only 10cm or 4″ from the bottom of my ribcage to the top of my hip so there is not alot of room for any kind of indentation to happen! I have enough padding on my rear end to provide cushion when sitting on hard chairs, but there’s certainly no mistaking me for Kim Kardashian!

I’m extremely lucky to be able to make most Burda pant patterns without doing any alterations (besides shortening the leg length). Another reason why I like Burda pant patterns is because they have a 2 piece waistband in that there is a seam in the centre back waist. If I fluctuate in my waist measurement, it is easy to adjust. This feature is often found in men’s pants.

In keeping with the current trend of narrow legged pants, I purchased Burda 6534. The description for these jeans is “Skinny low-rise jeans with front pockets, back pockets and a back yoke. They are the ideal coordinate for a wide array of tops.” For the record, I didn’t find them to be low-rise.

With this being the first time trying this pattern, I dug out some black stretch woven cotton from my stash. I always like the idea of a wearable muslin! Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. I was even too lazy to change the thread in my serger so I actually have white serging on my black pants.

With a 2 piece waistband pant, there is a slightly different order of things. First, you sew on the front pockets. Then the back yoke. Add the back pockets. Then the side and inner leg seams are sewn. Putting one leg inside the other, you work on the crotch of the pants by sewing from the bottom point of the zipper opening to about 1/3 into the seat of the back seam. Leave the remaining back seam open. Put in the zipper. Sew the open waistband onto the pants. Fold over the waistband and sew down just enough to finish the center front with the buttonhole and button. Now you can try on the pants to judge fit.

This is where I found I had more curves than I realized! This has not happened to me before with other pants patterns.

There was gaping from my backwaist to the high curve of my butt. Some customers suggested a sway back adjustment. When I looked up that, it involved making a horizontal pleat just below the waistband. In some people, the S-shaped curve in the spine is more pronounced so that the back length is shorter than the front. But as you can see from the picture, the waistband is fairly level. There was just too much gap in the small of my back.

The quick and dirty method I did was to simply pinch out the excess. I sewed straight down through the waistband, then did a dramatic curve out to the back seam. Boy, did it look weird!

But it worked! I did have to move the back pockets as by taking out the excess from the back, the pockets ended up too close to each other. I moved them outward by 2.5cm or 1″.

Sometimes you have to be careful using this method. By pinching out the excess, the waistband can end up dipping down into a V (so that it is no longer parallel to the floor) But this is easy to adjust by slightly lengthening the center back seam.

Another more complicated method of taking out the excess, is by pleating the back yoke. Because I had to take out 3.8cm or 1.5″ on each side, it would be better to divide this amount up over 2 or 3 places across the back yoke versus taking it out over one spot. By spreading out the pleat amount you have less of a curve readjustment.

Then you would have to make a dart in the back of the pants from the yoke seam to the top of the butt curve. Because stretch woven cotton doesn’t mold softly, the bottom of the dart can poke out. So make sure to put the dart where the bottom of the dart is actually hidden by the pocket! This is what they do in RTW.

See? Much more complicated than simply pinching out the excess.

Well, I had such success with this pattern, I promptly sewed up another 2. I love it when my trial garment works!

Free event!

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